culture shock

i'm currently in rajasthan, jaisalmer to be exact, and experiencing a bit of culture shock. i've somehow managed to blast myself out of chill, simple, free backpacker life and into tourbus style tour hell. i hired myself a private driver which most single women travelers i've talked to seem to recommend for this part of india, spent way too much money and feel like i've lost my freedom. i'm on a pretty set and tight schedule and feel as if i'm at the beck and call of my driver who's supposed to be at my beck and call. he tells me when we'll leave, which hotels i can stay at (i was told by the salesguy i could continue booking my own budget, small backpacker style guesthouses but now the driver's telling me it's not possible b/c of him and his car), tells me which restaurants i should eat at, where i should use internet (sure he gets commission) and he seems reluctant to take me out and around at night but also doesn't want me going out on my own. i'm hating it but it is nice not to have to be booking train tix every two days. anyway, i spent 2 nights at a lovely place of MY choosing in Nawalgarh named Apani Dani which was above my budget but sounded like a very special place so i decided to splurge. it was indeed very special and the owner a real gem of a guy who's very into community development, conservation, organic gardening and responsible tourism. i was very sad to not have learned more about programs he offers at his guesthouse and will have to return someday for a longer stay! Nawalgarh was a very cool, quiet town known for it's ancient havelis. http://apanidhani.com/

spent one night in bikaner and am now in jaisalmer famous for it's dreamy golden sandcastle-like fort which is basically now a walled city of markets, craft stalls, guesthouses and restaurants and will be departing on an overnight camel trek in a couple of hrs. can't believe i was talked into doing another overnight camel safari. i hurt just thinking about it.
the ancient forts, palaces and havelis of rajasthan ARE amazing and it's difficult to comprehend how things were in ancient times but also how much hasn't changed in sooo many years.
tomorrow i head to jodhpur, then onto pushkar, bundi and finally udaipur where i'm splurging again (an early xmas present to myself) at mountain ridge b/c the owner is very knowledgeable about the people, history and environment of the area, has mountain bikes and can hook me up with a local tribal leader for an overnight village trek (i hope). not sure where i'll spend my last week... tbd. off to ride a camel down the highway and then into the desert...